The best bistros in New York, presented in alphabetical order.
The best bistros in New York, presented in alphabetical order.
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Created 09/12/08
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1
Balthazar Restaurant
80 Spring St., New York, NY 10012 / 212-965-1414
Balthazar is still as much of a power scene as ever. The atmosphere has been compared to a bustling railway station. Perhaps---if the station is in St. Tropez in August. But it all works, harking back to the classic French brasserie of the early twentieth century complete with red banquettes, world-weary mirrors with wine selections printed on them and a scarred wood bar. The food is solid along classic bistro lines, with such dishes as tender whole-roasted chicken (for two) with seasonal vegetables, simple fish preparations and steak frites. The oyster and shellfish bar is one of the biggest and best. The more than 200 wines on the list wash down plenty of good eats. Baked in the adjacent Balthazar Bakery, the bread is excellent. If you can't score a reservation (you can make one 30 days in advance), go for a post-midnight supper or a drink at the bar that winds down at 4 a.m. Or try the restaurant's sister, Pastis, with a similar menu---though not as good---but with heavy amounts of celebrity cache.
2
Belcourt
84 E. Fourth St., New York, NY 10003 / 212-979-2034
Belcourt projects a studiously European vibe in décor (that of a classic French bistro) and in the kitchen. The windowed doors were imported from France, and the menu ranges from items like “Boudin Blanc Dogs” (an über-upscale hot dog) to a lamb burger feted with goat cheese, spicy ketchup, zucchini pickles and fries. For the most part, it’s a success, especially the seafood. The oil-poached octopus with pickled carrots and olive crisps, meanwhile, is a revelation, tender and packed with flavor. Hanger steak, traditionally an inexpensive cut, greatly benefits from being slathered in a decadent bone marrow sauce. Cocktails are part of the mix too, specialty libations inspired by old-school favorites like the 75 gussied up with strawberries, and a 1586 Tea, featuring rye, lingonberry and whiskey-barrel aged bitters. The mid-size wine list isn’t exceptional, but does have some good bottles in the sub-$40 range.
3
Benoit
60 W. 55th St., New York, NY 10019 / 646-943-7373
After opulent Adour, enter Benoit, inspired by the landmark Paris bistro opened in 1912 and now snatched up by the Ducasse Group. Inducted into the legendary La Côte Basque space, Benoit boasts a complete Belle Époque redo. The vibrant bar area wears black and white stripes, and in the dining room, engraved glass panels rub shoulders with antique mirrors while hanging sconces pour pensively over crimson banquettes. Chef Sébastien Rondier prepares a veal tongue appetizer---thin slices held together by an ethereal foie gras mousse; and pâté en croûte, a mosaic of different meats huddled together, framed by rightly flaky crust. Each plump and nicely cooked escargot hides under a crouton hood. Only the well-named plain daurade tartare fails to rise above sea level, but the real thing, in the form of a steak tartare, has all the pungency and texture required. Pike quenelles in a rich Nantua sauce are both intense and light and the roasted chicken must have been fed a lifetime diet of rosemary and thyme. Better hold off on the mushy cassoulet but don’t miss the mini profiteroles and their chocolate fondue, unless vanilla millefeuille is part of your Parisian dream. The extensive wine list proposes selections for every budget.
4
Café D'Alsace
1695 Second Ave., New York, NY 10128 / 212-996-1706
Upper East Siders, starved for well-prepared food in a sleek setting, had often migrated downtown when their stomachs rumbled. But Café D’Alsace gives locals one less reason to leave the neighborhood. Which would explain why this bright and airy eatery is so packed. Decked out with enough accoutrements to make you feel like you’re in Alsace---tiled floor, ancient Alsatian beer posters on the wall, tightly-spaced tables---the eatery serves up a menu that’s filled with hearty delights: from the traditional Alsatian stew, baeckeoffe (loaded with oxtails, lamb and bacon) to the obligatory choucroute (which comes in two variations: meat and fish, both boast homemade sauerkraut). And just about anything goes well with Café D’Alsace’s huge beer menu. Can’t decide if the Trappist ale or lambic brew will go best with your roasted duck breast in fresh raspberry sauce? Let the café’s knowledgeable beer sommelier pick for you. If that’s not reason to stay on the Upper East Side for dinner, then there isn’t one.
5
Café Luxembourg
200 W. 70th St., New York, NY 10023 / 212-873-7411
This tightly packed Art Deco bistro, with its zinc-topped bar, cream-colored walls, antique silver mirrors and occasional attitude, is an institution in the Lincoln Center area. Start with crisp baby artichokes with black olive tapenade or the country salad with Roquefort cheese, lardons and poached egg. Entrées range from roasted monkfish with a ragoût of sunchokes, asparagus and chives to Prime hanger steak with celery root purée, cipollini onions, baby Brussels sprouts and red wine reduction. There are reasonably priced three-course prix-fixe lunch and weekend brunch menus, as well as a pre-theater menu. After the opera or theater, a supper menu is offered that features omelets, sandwiches, crispy frites and other satisfying fare.
6
Casimir
103 Ave. B, New York, NY 10009 / 212-358-9683
The East Village is home to scads of bistros, and one of the standouts is Casimir, a hangout for young French expats. The waiters will be unimpressed with your high school français, so don't even bother trying. Just ask for your caper-filled steak tartare or nicely seared tuna in English. In summer, there's no better place to be than idling at a table next to the open doors. Next door you can kick back in the lounge done up with North African flair.
7
db bistro moderne
City Club Hotel, 55 W. 44th St., New York, NY 10036 / 212-391-2400
We would expect nothing less of chef extraordinaire and entrepreneur Daniel Boulud than an impeccable place. Modern indeed for a bistro and very elegant with soft and warm colors. Chef Olivier Muller oversees creative dishes organized by ingredient on the seasonally-inspired menu: artichoke soup with basil oil and tomato confit; country duck pâté with homemade pickled vegetables. How about a $32 hamburger: sirloin burger filled with braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffles on a Parmesan bun. This most-popular dish on the menu is definitely not your father's burger. Desserts are equally sweet and savory: chocolate praline crémeux (a creamy layering of hazelnut dacquoise, flaky pastry and dark chocolate ice cream) as well as an assortment of cheeses. Choose from a simple, international (well-priced) wine list that includes the likes of a Nicolas Potel Volnay. Not inexpensive, but an impeccable experience nevertheless.
8
La Goulue
746 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10021 / 212-988-8169
This Art-Nouveau bistro, with huge windows that open onto a swank stretch of Madison Avenue, has long served the French cigarette-inhaling, air-kissing crowd at night and, in the afternoon, Upper East Side ladies who lunch. The service remains fittingly aloof, and the fare ranges from steak and tuna tartare to fresh lobster salad, classic steak frites and the signature double-cheese soufflé.
9
Les Halles
411 Park Ave. S., New York, NY 10016 / 212-679-4111
This Gramercy Park restaurant captures the spirit of Paris far more successfully than most. Maybe it's the overlapping, worn posters, many of which announce past Les Halles events. Maybe it's the butcher counter up front that sells French-cut entrecôtes, boudins and andouillettes. Maybe it's the scarred wood tables. Or maybe it's the classic brasserie waitstaff parading steak frites and bottles of inexpensive red wine around the dining room. Whatever it is, the formula works, and Les Halles wisely never changes. Meat is the best bet here (the steak tartare is first-rate and the côte de boeuf a triumph), but though other dishes like the salads and fish can be good, overall the food is hit-or-miss. That said, the crisp frites are a must.
10
Pastis
9 Ninth Ave., New York, NY 10014 / 212-929-4844
Balthazar Restaurant's spirited younger sibling manages to live up to all of its forerunner's hype without stealing any of its thunder. The huge space has a decidedly Parisian aura and looks so perfectly worn, down to the cigarette-stained tile and worn floorboards. The menu serves what only can be described as French comfort food with dishes like an onion soup gratinée, the crispy croque monsieur (or madame), and an abundant seared tuna Niçoise salad. Nothing served at Pastis will rock the gastronomic world, but it’s a nice Gallic escape from the daily grind of Gotham. Make reservations in advance or be prepared to wait (and wait) with throngs of tourists hoping to catch a celeb sighting.
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